One of the most charming things I find is how, despite a very low employment rate at very poor wages, everyone in the town eats very well. They <\/span>each<\/span>\u00a0have\u00a0<\/span>a\u00a0<\/span>private garden (called an\u00a0<\/span>orto<\/span>) where they grow much of their own food, and most have\u00a0<\/span>a\u00a0<\/span>storage\u00a0<\/span>area<\/span>\u00a0in their basements (called a cantina) where they store olive oil (from their own trees), wine (from their own vines), tomato sauce, olives, dried fruit, and many other delicious things. They also harvest things from\u00a0<\/span>along side<\/span>\u00a0the road, like figs, wild anise (called\u00a0<\/span>finoccio<\/span>), rosemary, and many other herbs. We have participated in making pasta from scratch, making soap, grilling eggplant outdoors, and\u00a0<\/span>deep frying<\/span>\u00a0savory treats that are a bit like donuts but better (<\/span>zeppole<\/span>). With little employment, people can spend much of their time on cooking and eating.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n The cultural heritage of Calabria\u00a0<\/span>is very diverse including<\/span>\u00a0Greek influence from the time that southern Italy and Sicily were considered part of \u2018Greater Greece\u2019. There are also Arabic and Albanian influences and many Norman fortresses and castles. This part of Italy is often considered wild and unruly by the rest of the country\u2014a region of bandits and \u2018<\/span>brigande<\/span>\u2019. We have not encountered any of these villains in our visits, and perhaps it is why the area is relatively unspoiled, with virtually no tourists.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The landscape is amazingly beautiful and wild. Fresh water can be had at many public springs in the hills, and everyone has their own favorite source to go and fill empty cola bottles<\/span>\u00a0with icy cold drinking water.\u00a0<\/span>The commercial part of the town has many tiny shops, often selling only a few items, so that\u00a0<\/span>shopping and\u00a0<\/span>cooking become<\/span>s<\/span>\u00a0an all-day affair. Our house is near the top of the central hill of the town, with streets that include steps (so no motorized vehicles can make it up to our front door), and everything we buy must be carried up about five flights.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n \u00a0\u00a0 We have also participated in a major fall cultural event: the olive harvest. Methods for harvesting vary in different parts of Italy, but in Calabria the trees are often not pruned\u00a0<\/span>and harvest involves<\/span>\u00a0use of \u2018shakers\u2019, which look like very long-handled rakes but with a power unit that\u00a0<\/span>causes olives to fall into<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>n<\/span>ets are spread on the\u00a0<\/span>ground.\u00a0<\/span>Once collected, the mix of olives, leaves and small branches are taken to the local communal press, where hand picking is done to remove debris (although it is said that the taste is improved when a few leaves and branches are left in)<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>What comes out is pure heaven\u2014cloudy, greenish-gold liquid that tastes strongly of the actual olive fruits and is absolutely delicious poured over\u00a0<\/span>local<\/span>\u00a0bread with just a dash of salt.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n We were fortunate enough to spend New\u00a0<\/span>Years<\/span>\u00a0with Antonio and his family one year at his country house near the top of the hill outside of town. The traditional meal on New\u00a0<\/span>Years<\/span>\u00a0should include 12 fishes, and Antonio\u2019s wife (who is a fabulous cook) managed to fit all 12 into about\u00a0<\/span>five<\/span>\u00a0courses. It was an overwhelming meal, followed by sitting out on the terrace and looking out over the valley,\u00a0<\/span>from which\u00a0<\/span>you can see Mount Etna\u00a0<\/span>i<\/span>n Sicily, as well as several of the Aeolian island volcanos out at sea. I feel incredibly fortunate to have friends in this wonderful, isolated place<\/span>, where everyone<\/span>\u00a0has been welcoming and many have taken us into their hearts and treat us like family<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"\/radiology\/files\/2021\/01\/001.jpg\")
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